There were a few nasty surprises I encountered as a "newly minted adult" that I wish someone had warned me about. Here is #5 on my short list.
Number 5: Personal Finance is more than balancing a checkbook
I did get an A in that by the way. Managing personal financing is more about anticipating your needs and planning accordingly. Knowing what your income versus expenses are quarterly since they bloody well fluctuate during season changes. Knowing if your household, even if it's just you, is running in the black. I have found Quarterly (even monthly) Profit & Loss sheets to be excellent at helping figure it all out and make projections for the next quarter.
Quarterly Profit & Loss Sheet - Household
A Quarterly Profit & Loss sheet for a household also helps pinpoint where the hell all your cash is going and plugging those leaks from draining your Income bucket.
So how does a P&L work?
Income
Employment
Odd Jobs
Garage Sales
eBay
Parents/Allowance/Trustfund
Interest
Winnings
Expenses
Rent/Mortgage
Electric/Gas
Transportation
Food - Groceries
Food - Take Out/Delivery/Eat Out
Paper Goods
Telephone - Land
Telephone - Cell
Internet
Entertainment
Laundry
Misc
Subtract your expenses from your income and you have exactly what your Net worth is or how well you're doing saving. I know my ex-teacher was all about "pay yourself first" and "put 10% of your paycheck in the bank". Sometimes, with the amount of expenses, that's just not possible. With the P&L sheets I have been using since 2000, I've been able to pinpoint a section to reduce so I am able to save something. Changing habits = reduced expenses. Another part of Personal Finance that was sorely lacking from my education was Crisis Planning.
Crisis Fund
Whether you save 10% or 100% of your, ahem, "Profit" you shouldn't consider it actual "Savings" yet until you start to exceed your Crisis Planning fund. Crisises like parental leave for new parents, lay off or a medical emergency. Yes, your insurance will cover the medical cost. Who will pay your bills while you are out of work though? Bills do not take breaks or vacations, even if you do get forebearance for some things, at the end of that you will be expected to pay, sometimes with interest. Crisis funds should be stocked up for a minimum of three months of expenses though I prefer six months to a year for safety's sake.
The vast majority of employers in the United States do not offer paid parental leave. There is the option of applying for State Temporary Disability due to Pregnancy but that will only net you a fraction, and a very small one, of your income per month. Even if you have no plans to get pregnant, get someone pregnant or adopt/surrogate/foster you should incorporate potential expenses into your Crisis Fund. It's like getting sick; no one plans for that to happen either. It is the practical thing to do.
You could create a separate Pregnancy Fund if you like, just remember that whatever your expenses are double them. A baby is an entire separate person and not a roommate with a steady adult income. There are programmes you can apply for after delivery and birth where the baby will have an income. Such as, Women, Infants and Children (W.I.C) and Nutrition Supplement (Food Stamps) whether you are low to medium income. Think of it as the government's form of making up for no national parental leave. Every potential parent, whether you are single, married, cohabitating, LGBT or straight, should have a pregnancy/parental fund. What is also as important as Crisis and Pregnancy funds is the knowledge of Debt Management.
Revolving Debt Management: Credit Equals Debt
It took me trial, error and staggering credit card debt to figure this out. The main part of the credit part of debt management, and your credit report in general is this; PAY YOUR DAMN BILLS ON TIME. That is what the majority of your credit score is based on. Payment History. Balances fluctuate but if you are a bastard of a customer? That sticks to you like shi...well you get the point.
The trick to paying credit cards on time that no one tells you is this. There are two dates. One you see and one you don't see. When you get your bill there is a Due Date. You believe you're fine since you've mailed out your payment or paid online a week in advance. Then you wait until the payment clears and go shopping. The next bill comes in and you see that it says you were over your limit the month before and think "What the hell!? I paid the bill! How could I be overlimit!?" That is due to the second date. It's called your Statement Closing date.
Okay, let's say your due date says April 7, 2011 and your statement closing date is on the 15th. You pay your previous bill amount online by the 7th wait until the payment clears and then go shopping. Whatever amount you've racked up by the 15th is what will show on your next bill. So, while you might be ontime you are now overlimit and showing bad money management behaviour. First thing you do when getting a new credit card is find out when your statement closes. You can also request that it be changed.
To prevent going overlimit, pay your bill by the statement closing date instead of the due date. Whatever amount is on the card, pay it down to 10% of your credit limit by the statement closing date. By, meaning before the statement closing date and don't use your card until after that date. When you receive your next statement in the mail, if you have a $1000 credit limit and paid it down to 10% your balance due should be $100. On time and showing good money management. Easiest way to begin managing your debt and getting a solid credit score.
There are other things like negotiating debt payments with creditors. I've paid off $25k in debt for only $3k one year by calling them up, usually when it's around 4 to 5 years in, and saying "I have this much right now. Take it or leave it and I want the settlement deal faxed in writing before I pay you." I picked a high percentage of the debt for charge off without totally being insulting, that we could start negotiations at. Say, 65% off. So if it was originally $1500, I'd offer to pay $525 and see what happens. Only one place negotiated a lower percentage for a debt of $300. I offered $105 at 65% off and they countered with $180 at 40% off.
You should only do this with those creditors you actually intend on settling with that day or your debt resets to the date you made new contact. Shows up as a new charge off and hurts your credit score. If the debt is over 7 years old, it should not be on your credit report and the creditors should not be contacting you. Dispute it for removal. They'll have to provide original paperwork to prove it's recent. You could still do like the majority does and simply wait the 7 years.
Installment Accounts
I would not go over four revolving credit card accounts and FICO recommends having at least one installment account (car note, student loan, other loan) on your credit report. Ever get that note "Not enough credit history"? Same as revolving credit accounts, pay your bills on time.
Resources
A great place to hang out for all your credit score needs? MyFICO: (http://ficoforums.myfico.com/fico/) A credit score is the difference between a 3% APR and a 49% APR. If you don't know what I mean, I'll put it in terms of money. If you have a balance on your credit card of $1000 for a year, the interest you pay at 3% is $16.16. At 49%? It's $233. (Credit Card Payment Calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/creditcardcalc.html). Credit cards make you wish you hadn't used "Where, in real life, will I ever use this crap!?" as an excuse not to pay attention in Math class.
I have yet to figure out 401(k) and IRAs but I understand Certificates of Deposits (CDs) just fine. I use these unless the bank is offering a savings account with a better interest rate. Explaining 401(k) and IRAs to me would have been nice you schmucks!
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